This was another adventure that I’ve been waiting so long to take on. It was another amazing trip up to Baxter State Park in Maine. I’ve been fortunate enough to have been there 6 times now. 3 times in 3 season and 3 in winter. Unfortunately this time I had to go solo literally last minute. My climbing partner backed out less than 24 hours of our leave date, leaving me scrambling to change reservations and plan logistical changes. Adventure wouldn’t be adventure with out Murphy’s law huh?
My plan was to pull a sled to into Foster Field group camping area and attempt to climb Mount Coe via its slide and North and South Brother. What I was attempting even on paper was a very uncommon route and doing it solo added more rarity. Most of the rangers and staff were surprised to hear that someone was camping at foster field. Its usually Abol Campground or Chimney pond which are the hot spots in winter as most climbers are trying to climb Katahdin and Hamlin ridge.
Day 1. I left my apartment packed up and ready to go at 4am. I hit horrific traffic and accidents, I pulled into the lot at 1pm which mean I would for sure be setting up camp in the dark and pulling a pulk in the dark. I had puIled into the familiar abol bridge parking lot and saw a wonderful view of Baxter State Park. I might have even been late because I was enjoying the drive. I setup all of my gear and my pulk and headed onto the trail. My pulk fins quickly came off as I was creating drag and working way harder than I needed to. I soon reached the sign in post. I signed up name in and I was on my way. The walk to Tote road was very uneventful. I ran into 2 rangers and had a quick chat and then we both on our separate ways. I The hike in was quite peaceful, I eventually go the pace of my pulk. With only a headlamp guiding my way I pushed o, I setup camp, boiled water ate and went to bed. Being on 3 hours of sleep if that and driving 6 and hiking the 10 miles with an 88 liter bag and pulk I was tired. ended up getting to the site at 530pm.
Day 2. After some much needed sleep and rest I woke up at 6am which was late. I scrambled to get everything ready and I was on my way. I loaded up my 88 liter pack with gear in case I went down or had to hunker down overnight. In addition to this, which was a first for me was hauling 70M(220Feet) of rope and a ice climbing rack in the event I needed to set up anchors or rappel down. I proceeded to climb the “old’ OJI trail which went up a very steep slide and any fall /slip would be very hazardous even more so solo. So no falling was a real thing. I soon made it to the top of the OJI old trail and finding multiple spruce traps and waist deep snow. I continued to hit signs of frustration wondering where the heck this junction was. I soon hit the junction for the OJI link trail which was untouched, which I would be breaking. After some short time the trail started to level out and open up which led be to the base of the slide from the Coe link trail. Visibility was horrific and ice was everywhere. I switched to crampons and an ice axe/ pole combo. It was a mixture of hard ice, snow, thin, ice and rock. Any mistake here would be very painful and a long slide to the bottom. All my concentration was on route finding, keeping balance and enjoying every second of this. The slide got steeper as I was reaching the top. I knew that to go down this in pitch black was not ideal and very dangerous.
I slowly worked my way going up the left side. Every step had to be solid and secure as self arresting would be very rough , if even possible. I found myself front pointing into the ice in sections. After some time and complete silence in the area besides the wind I soon found myself off of the slide. I wasn’t in a spot where I could relax I was now breaking trail in thigh to waist high snow in crampons. I did this for a good 15 minutes before I found a spot where I actually could relax and put snow shoes on. Every step after this was a battle. Keep in mind I still have an 88 liter backpack with 70m of rope and climbing gear. After a short time I the trail started to level out and I made out what appeared to be an iced over sign that said “ Mount Coe” I was relieved with joy and the ability to drop by rope pack and climbing gear. Every step up to this point had been earned and worked for. After a quick break and picture I was off to North and South Brother. Again I was breaking trail the entire way. After some time of finding the trail and spruce traps I hit the junction for south brother. I had every intention of summiting North Brother and South brother. I was less than a mile of unbroken uphill trail from the Martson junction that lead to north brother. It was now 330PM. I sat there for about 5 minutes wondering , do I push forward or head back to descend the slide knowing that daylight was very scarce.?I’ve only turned around a couple of times. It was very emotional and bitter sweet feeling. I know I could have made it. At the same time I was tracking my progress with my Garmin Inreach and if that died people would assume something happened. I made the call to turn around. It wasn’t worth getting injured this early in the season. I made the call and some tears were shed
“Summiting is optional, coming home is mandatory.”
Unknown
I’d be lying if tears weren’t shed when I turned around in my tracks for the next ¼ mile. With the trail that I had broken out I made good time back to the summit of Mount Coe. The sky was getting dark and it was clear that I would be descending the slide in the dark with only a head light to light my way. I took a quick moment to fuel up and eat some food. I proceeded down the trail to about 100 feet before you are out on the slide. I started to prep my climbing gear. It now preceded to snow and blow wind and I didn’t even mind. Everything up to this point had been a proper adventure.While prepping gear and an anchor , due to not moving and generating heat I could feel my body starting to shiver. I kept my calm and continued to set up the anchor/ rappel. I’ve only been rappelling a couple of times under 10 time total. I tested my setup while attached to my anchor at least 10 times. I donned my back with snow shoes compressed under the brain of my pack. Rappelling with snow shoes was another first. Everything was holding and I started my descent. Right away I felt my crampons dig into the ice. I slowly made my way down 105 feet before I saw my 2 knots at the end of my rope, so I would not rappel off of my rope. I secured my self via another anchor. I pulled the rope down to me, set up another anchor and continued the descent. This time was a bit rougher, it was smooth until I got a section where it was 20 feet of ice straight down, and again I took my time going down this until I reached my knots. I was now in deeper snow rather than ice. Feeling comfortable I took detached from my rappel and coiled it around my shoulder. I was now plunge stepping in pitch black with rope and an ice axe with only a light guiding my way.
Shortly after I found myself at the base of the slide, I was very relieved and proud of myself, but the real challenge was now beginning. I switched back to snowshoes and put the 220 feet of rope back on my pack and proceeded to head back to camp via the OJI trail. Every step required strength and focus. I soon reached the summit of Mount OJ I and just stood there taking in the moonlit view of the area around me. To my surprise I saw a white outline of the slide that I just climbed, It was the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen in my life. I wonder what people would have thought if they saw this tiny light going down the slide. No picture could capture the emotion and sense of accomplishment that I felt seeing what I had climbed up and descended. I still had about 4 miles to go to get back to the campsite. I forgot how twisty and turny this trail was. After working my way down this trail I was soon at the trail head signing out at 1030pm. I had been hiking for 16hours which was exactly what I wanted in preparation for next week’s trip. Even though I had been hiking for 16 hours I still needed to melt snow so I could have water for the morning. About a half hour later I was all set and in bed.
Day 3. After some much needed sleep I woke up around 5am not sure whether it’s safe to move and what would be sore and what wouldn’t. I also was contemplating if I stood up would how enjoyable would it be. I situated myself and got my boots on my feet. As I stepped out of the tent my legs felt pretty good. I fired up the stove and devoured some oatmeal and mocha moose pudding. I broke down camp while enjoying the quiet morning. Within an hour what I called home for the past 3 days was now packed up in the back of my pulk. At 7am I was hooked up to my pulk and I was moving forward. This time I barebooted instead of wearing snow shoes. I noticed a good increase in speed. I had about 10 miles and ideally a 5 hour hike out. I passed a heavy amount of snow mobile traffic on the way back. I passed 3 forest rangers and gave them a trail update. When I arrived at Abol campground, I remembered the a ranger had mentioned the National Guard’s Mountain Division was doing some training and their snow vehicle was there. After a short while, thoroughly enjoying the downhill parts with my sled I found myself at the junction leading to abol beach which meant I was under 1.5 from my car. I had debated about sliding down the road with my sled , but I was concerned about colliding into a snow mobile and the integrity of my sled so I wasn’t able to slide this time. I took a final picture by the sign and gave it a tap as I proceeded to head to abol beach. From there on it was a short mile until I reached the trail head.
When I reached the trail head I had an amazing view of Katahdin in a clear blue sky. I reminisced about the past adventures that I’ve had, and I now have a new adventure in my pocket.
I had a short time to reflect upon this adventure. Having to switch from going with someone to going solo was a big shock especially literally last moment. 3 hours of sleep 6 hours of driving 5.5 hours of hiking day 1. Attempting and climbing a route that didn’t have information or easily available was a little concerning. I had to go in 100% prepared and ready to turn around if needed. The call to turn around was a very hard call but in return I was able to rappel in pitch black a slide that most will never climb or descend. It was a very humbling and scary experience.
There is something to be said about facing fears when presented in situations where life and death is such a fine line. The crazy ones and dreamers are the one who make things happen and have an impact on their world and live their life full. Imagine how many people would have never reached their full potential if they played it safe or listened to someone else telling them to be safe or be told you are stupid , like your dreams. As long you as believe in your dream, yourself, and your actions… Nothing else really matters. The thought of living with regret should be all the motivation you need.
“First they will tell you it can’t be done, it’s impossible.
Then they will list reasons of why you can’t do it
They will list every reason why you shouldn’t go for it.
They won’t be by your side when you make the effort to chase the impossible.
Then they will ask you how you did it:”
I’m pretty sure I came out a completely different person after this trip, in a good way.
