Baxter State park is such a beautiful place.I had already done Katahdin once in the winter before via Abol Slide. However this time I wanted to do something much more. I wanted to attempt a winter traverse of the notorious knife edge in Baxter State park in winter. Weather, logistics, and hoping the weather would cooperate were all important concerns that we had to consider while planning this climb.
Baxter State park is located in Maine and quite a gem. Its regulated for a good reason, Baxter State park is absolutely beautiful. During the winter they shut down some of the main access points so you have much longer days and have to hike and camp just to get to an approach to the actual beginning of the trail. This isn’t a problem for most people especially if you have skis or a couple of days free. It is a beautiful approach no matter how you look at it. Compared to most hikes you can drive up to the trailhead and hike up and hike down. . Most day trips are extremely long and most trips require an overnight.
Our plan was to park at Abol bridge a winter parking location and pull 2 sleds of gear into chimney pond where we spend the first night before we attempted the knife edge traverse the 2nd day and hike out the 3rd
Day 1: Approach 2-17-19
We drove up to Abol Bridge parking area at 3am to get a very early start. It was a brisk cold and windy morning, my camry was loaded with 2 full sleds and plenty of winter gear. We unloaded the sleds and packed the pulks appropriately.After we loaded up we enjoyed the last bit of warmth before we left the car and started our 16.3 mile approach into Chimney pond.This was my first time pulling a pulk so there was a slight learning curve. After 15 minutes the learning curve was gone. We soon linked up with Park Tote Road after passing a frozen Abol Beach The road was pretty packed down not seeing much usage except for the Rangers on snowmobiles and hikers skiing/snow shoeing. The sun was starting to rise as we closed in the Tongue pond gatehouse. We took a short break here admiring Katahdin lighting up as the snow hit the ridge line almost looking golden. We proceeded to make the left turn and start our way on Roaring Brook Road which was a long stretch. On each side was plenty of snow and in the middle of the road was the packed down path created by snowmobiles and other hikers. If you stepped right off, it wasn’t a good idea unless you had snow shoes on. The air was quiet and the cold brisk air was beautiful. The only thing audible was 2 guys pulling sled wondering when the road will turn into the Roaring Brook Camp Ground.
After a couple of hours of pulling pulks we finally descended into Roaring Brook camp ground. The campground looked so quiet. A couple of paths leading to entrances of the buildings just wide enough for once person or a snowmobile. We stopped by the 3 season office and saw the last entries of 2018 at the roaring brook trailhead trail register. It was pretty neat, that log book is piece of history in everyone’s lives. We checked the mileage to Chimney pond and it said 3.3 miles, and they would be a tough 3.3 miles. Shortly into the last mile we ran into a ranger who was extremely nice and helpful. He had asked us what our agenda was and who we were. He told us to link up with him later in the afternoon before we made our climb in the am. We yielded right of way to him so he could pass, in the process my pulk almost tipped. We started going up hill with our pulks and we could feel every bit of weight pulling us down as we took each step. We joked around a bit hoping that our sleds wouldn’t fall as it was a long day down to retrieve them. The views and sky was incredible, it was one of those bluebird days that you read and dream about. We crossed a frozen body of water and were greeted by stunning 360 degree views. One view that that stuck out was the breathtaking view of Katahdin and the route that we would be climbing the very next day. Step by step we made forward progress as we closed in on Chimney pond Campground. We closed in on Chimney pond around 3:30pm hiked non stop taking breaks after the pulk pulls up the hills. Walking into the bowl was quite a site. We found our leanto, luckily it was dug out as some of the other leantos were still buried under snow. Our first step was to unpack and get camp set up. After setting up camp we decided to check in with the Ranger. We sat down and discussed our agenda and routes. He let us know that no one had broken out any of the routes up The Dudely trail or to treeline via Hamlin Ridge trail. After the discussion we headed back to camp and proceed to break out to treeline via Hamlin ridge. We did this so that we would not have to break out trail after a long day. After breaking out the quick mile in we headed back to the camp to prepare food and get an early night rest.
Day 2 Climbing time 2-18-19
We woke up at 3am to get another alpine start. We fired up the stoves and got our food and water setup ready as we donned our gear we had boots on the ground and geared up by 4am. We completed the agenda at the Rangers Cabin before we headed up to break trail going up Dudley Trail to Pamola Peak and attempt the traverse across the knife edge, arriving at Baxter peak traversing over to Hamlin peak, and down Hamlin ridge. I put the clip board with the completed sheet back on the slot. Now the adventure began. We headed out to Chimney pond and did a 360 before we beared left to the start of the Dudely trail. Looking straight up we saw snow and snow with our headlights illuminating our way. Going up in snow shoes with televators was ideal but only for a certain time. We soon switched to our crampons due to the snow pack. Step by step we were breaking trail using our waists to help break the snow pack. It was hard and as tiring as it sounded. Once we made it above treeline to the ridge , we took a quick to fuel up and hydrate and layer up before we made the climb . This was our first time up the Dudely trail. We proceeded to climb over the boulders and mixed alpine before we hit a sheet of solid hard pack snow, perfect for crampons. The sun was starting to shine and the wind was starting to pickup and we made our way to Pamola Peak. What seemed like ages climbing over each boulder making sure each movement was properly coordinated quickly came to an end when we saw Pamola Peak trail sign just a few hundred feet away. As we took it step by step as we approached the sign, I spun my head around 360 to take in the amazing blue bird day. I turned to my right to eye the Knife edge and gaze upon the Notch that had been on my mind for the last 3 weeks. My buddy soon caught up and we were discussing feelings/ current energy levels. I had told him if we want to turn around , now is the best time and only time.
Both of us feeling good we decided to push on. Very carefully we descending into Pamola notch, taking our time as one wrong step or misplace would not fare well. I made it down and the helped coach my buddy make is way down. When we arrived at the bottom, we were at the hardest part of the trip. This had been a moment and sight that I had been preparing myself for 2 weeks in advance to this climb. We discussed the best way on how to go up. The snow pack/ slope was very firm and we decided to free climb it. (Obviously this won’t happen every time)Knowing that every step and every ice axe placement was key in climbing this part. The risk for danger here was very high. At one point I looked down and could see the bottom and the long fall if I did fall would end in my favor. Falling was not an option.I took my time going up the route until I finally made it to the top. Every step felt solid, my hiking partner was next, he went a little different route than I went but he made it up just as well. We took a break at the top realizing we had just made it past the first hurdle of the trip and we could now begin our trek across the infamous knife edge. Taking in the views was absolutely astonishing, there was not a cloud in the sky. The wind was starting to pick up so we decided to move on.
We spaced ourselves out a bit as there were some questionable slabs of snow that we were walking on. The hiking surface was mixture of rock, ice and snow. We took our time as we made our way across the thin edge. The feeling of going up and down over rock onto snow and ice and an exhilarating and technical feeling. We took a couple of breaks along the way occasionally spotting figures at chimney pond taking in the views.We took our time making sure we were in control of our movements and speed the entire way as a fall would most likely be fatal. It was like this most of the way. We spotted a couple of small releases as we gazed towards Hamlin Ridge. There were a couple of questionable wind slabs so we exercised extreme caution while crossing them. After trekking across so slowly we saw the giant cairn marking the location of Baxter peak. This provided a sudden surge of energy as we pushed cautiously towards the marker. As we started to level out on the ridge, we got hit by a steady gust of wind. The view of Abol Slide came into view as well. 2 years prior this was the route that we had taken. There was a bit of a nostalgic memory here. We pressed on towards the summit cairn and the sign was without a doubt covered under snow. We both rejoiced and had some feelings of accomplishment. We took another short break before we moved on to head to Hamlin. At this point is was clear sailing, the weather had completely cooperated and the windchill was only -11F which could be way worse.
We started down the ridge soon passing signs indicating the Saddle and Caethedral trail. We passed both of these on our way to Hamlin Ridge. After going downhill for awhile we starting to make the final uphill gain for the day. Our steps were slow as we had both been going strong for most of the day. Step by step we made our way up to the junction sign at Hamlin Peak. We had time for another break and quick celebration. Again being surrounded by clear skies and weather as far as the eye could see, we enjoyed everyone moment. We started to make our way down Hamlin ridge. Just by quickly gauging some of the snow we saw there was plenty of wind slab. We would have to exercise caution and take it slow. Being tired and hiking all day we were more likely to make a mistake at the end of the day. Having broken out trail to Hamlin Ridge last night was an amazing idea and didn’t regret it one bit at this point. Step by step we worked our way down the spine of Hamlin ridge using the summer trail in spots to avoid risk on some of the loaded slabs ready to go. As we descended the ridge I had looked over to my right to be in complete awe as, what we had just climbed was in complete view with almost a golden tint to it as the sun started to work its way down. As we crossed each little hump treeline got closer. The tracks that we had left the previous night were visible. We were just about down. The last section downhill less than 500FT was perhaps the most stressful. Going down the final slope we could feel the snow moving with every step below us. Even descending with large curves the terrain was very iffy. We headed over to the area that we had broken out with our snow shoes the night before and just sat there reflecting upon what we had just done. After that we put our snow shoes on and made our way down the broken trail back to Chimney pond. Upon arriving the campground my buddy went back to the leanto to rest and I went to the ranger cabin to sign us back in. After unwinding and meal prep we went to bed mentally preparing ourselves for the long 16.3 miles out in the morning.
Day 3- 3-19-19
After a comfortable night sleep we woke up. Thermometer showed it about -4F. We both had bags rated to -30F and -40F so we didn’t have an issue with that. We fired the the stove again heated up some food before we started packing up the gear to head out. About an hour later we had the pulks packed up. I went out to the center of the frozen Chimney pond one last time to take it all in before we headed out. With the packs all loaded up we proceeded to head out with our first stop being Roaring Brook Falls. Needless to say with the hills going down there was a bit of sledding and sledding fails. The 3 miles seemed like absolutely nothing compared to going up with a pulk. We took another break at Roaring Brook Campground. This time there were more people getting ready to head out as well. Shortly after leaving the campground we were once again on Roaring Brook road for the 13 miles back Abol Bridge parking area. Numerous times we were passed by rangers coming in and out on snowmobiles. We would talk for a bit and then they would go their separate ways. After a couple of hours we made it to Tongue Pond Gatehouse which meant that we were almost back to the parking area. This time without a break, we pushed on the remaining mileage until we got to the Abol Beach. With just a short distance to go we pushed on until we reached the parking area. Not much was said during the final 3 hours. The only thing you could hear was the sound of foots stepping, breathing, and a sleds being pulled. When we reached the parking area, we both had a chance to look behind us and see Baxter one last time before we headed back to the hotel.
Baxter State Park is an amazing place year-round. This adventure was absolutely stunning. If anyone decides to venture into Baxter State park any time of the year, I strongly recommend visiting their website for information and rules and regulations. Do not use this blog as a replacement for experience or logistical planning. This is my personal experience even though our adventure went hitch-free doesn’t mean we will always be so lucky. Proper preparation, skill set,and decision making are important skills to bring with you anywhere.
The mountains are a beautiful place but they are not to be underestimated or disrespected. When you are doing any hike there is one thing you should leave at home…. your Ego
